- To read about my recommendations of affordable, Reasonable, Convenient hotels in Tokyo, visit: Affordable Cheap Reasonable Hotels in Tokyo
- To read about my recommendations of affordable and reasonable hotels in Osaka, visit: Osaka Reasonable Affordable Hotels
- To read about my recommendations of reasonable, affordable, and convenient hotels in Kyoto, visit: Kyoto reasonable, affordable, and convenient Hotels
- To read about how to plan your trip to Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe, visit: Planning your trip to Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe in Japan
Meeting Yoda in the very back of the All Nippon flight was a sign of a great trip ahead of me.
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| All Nippon Star Wars themed flight with Yoda riding with everyone |
Tips, recommendations and what I learned from this Japan Rail Pass trip
1. Book your hotel ahead of time, in order to find great deals for Onsen hot spring hotels and city hotels at very high value and at convenient locations.
2. Many restaurants have table and late night charges, even for franchise Izakaya restaurants; final bill for Wara Wara Izakaya 笑笑 居酒屋 near Shinagawa 品川 station cost me a bit higher than I expected.
3. Many major traditional Onsen hotel/Ryokan (Hotel Urashima) might appear to be quiet before 3pm; Most guests arrive at 6 to 8pm; Onsen hotel Karaoke bar facility starts to get busy after 9 or 10pm.
Detailed Itinerary of Island Hop between Okinawa and mainland Japan using Japan Rail Pass
Day 1: Arriving in Naha Okinawa after connecting at Tokyo Narita airport
You can almost be guaranteed that All Nippon flight meals will taste more delicious and their level of service will always be superb, even in my modest Economy class cabin.
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| All Nippon Airways Provence beef stew |
After connecting in Star Wars themed flight, I finally arrived in Naha 那覇 airport in Okinawa. It was amazing to see our young American soldiers waiting for their family members and loved ones at Naha airport.
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| Young American soldiers waiting for their loved ones at Okinawa Naha airport |
Getting from the airport into the city center was a breeze that the city tram took only about 10 minutes and about 260 yen to get into the heart of downtown Naha. After checking into Hotel New Okinawa on the most bustling streets of downtown, I met up with my college buddy and started our night time stroll for some of the best local Okinawan home cuisine.
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| Okinawan Mama chef at 24-hour eatery Mikado |
We ended our night by visiting one of the best nightlife venue, Club Epica. Entrance fee was about 2500 to 3000 yen, including one 600 yen drink. I believe some of the beverages such as Oolong tea and Awamori wine were free of charge.
- Route: Los Angeles airport - Narita airport - Naha Okinawa airport - Naha Kokusai Dori street 国際通り.
- Transportation: All Nippon Airways, international and domestic flights; Yui Rail Naha City Monorail.
- Visit: Naha Kokusai Dori;
- Food: Mikado 24-hr eatery local cuisine Okinawa Chanpon, Somen Chanpuru.
- Hotel: Hotel in downtown Naha Okinawa
Day 2: Exploring Naha Okinawa by city tram; Shuri-Jo castle; Okinawa Ryujin no Yu Onsen hot spring
Within a 3-minute walk from my city Hotel, I arrived at Okinawa First Makishi Public Market 牧志市場, and had Okinawan Souki Soba ソーキそば pork rib noodle soup for breakfast.
After briefly checking out the local produce, fruits and seafood, I took the monorail tram to Shuri-Jo castle 首里城 to visit the kingdom that once thrived in the nearby Asian sea.
Later I took the tram to another station to be picked up by free shuttle to the best Onsen hot spring on the island, Ryukyu Onsen at Senagajima Hotel Ryujin no Yu 琉球温泉 瀬長島ホテル 龍神の湯. Ocean view open air hot spring soak was much needed after yesterday's long flight to Okinawa.
I was joined by my college buddy in the evening for dinner. We had the most amazing Ishigaki Wagyu beef 石垣牛 at an upscale Yakinku BBQ restaurant as well as some of the most exotic seafood, Yashigani ヤシガニ and Semiebi セミえび at a seafood restaurant.
- Route: Along the Naha city monorail tram line.
- Transportation: Yui Rail Naha City Monorail.
- Visit: Naha Kokusai Dori street; Okinawa First Makishi Public Market; Ryukyu Shuri-Jo castle; Ryujin no Yu Onsen hot spring at Senagajima Hotel 琉球温泉 瀬長島ホテル 龍神の湯; Naha nightlife stroll.
- Food: Okinawa Inaka Souki Soba; Hana Yakiniku restaurant 華, Ishigaki Wagyu Beef 石垣牛, Agu Pork アぐ豚; Mensoure restaurant, Yashigani ヤシガニ, Semiebi セミえび, Dachou Sashimi, Kai Budou 海ぶどう, Deep fried Yasai, Age Beni-Imo; Blue Seal, Sugar cane, Beni imo, and sea salt milk ice cream; Ichigin 24 hr Eatery いちぎん食堂, Kara age meal set, Kaki age meal set.
- Hotel: Hotel in downtown Naha Okinawa
Day 3: Naha city stroll and Wedding ceremony in Yomitan Okinawa
Since the intention of visiting Okinawa was to attend a friend's wedding ceremony at Hotel Nikko Alivila/Yomitan Resort ホテル日航アリビラ ヨミタンリゾート沖縄; Lazor Garden Alivila Cristea Church, we took it easy in the morning and visited the Makishi public market in the morning and enjoyed some local cuisine on the Kokusai Dori strip.
Naha city in Okinawa may appear to be similar to any other cities in mainland Japan, its more tropical geographic location made it suitable for growing delicious tropical fruits. Some of the Japanese grown mango and pineapple are sold at reasonable price in Makishi market.
With some concern for the raining weather forecast that day, my friend decided to call for a taxi cab to take us to Hotel Nikko Alivila/Yomitan Resort/Lazor Garden Alivila Cristea Church, which were about 60 minutes away by car. Western style wedding followed by French style fusion cuisine, everyone enjoyed the night despite of the windy weather.
After getting back to downtown Naha by Taxi, my college buddy and I met up with some more of his friends to enjoy some more food to finish off our last night of stay in Okinawa.
- Route: Naha to Yomitan area (about 50 minute by car) and back to Naha
- Transportation: Taxi cab
- Visit: Okinawa First Makishi Public Market; Hotel Nikko Alivila/Yomitan Resort; Lazor Garden Alivila Cristea Church
- Food: First Makishi Public Market, Sata Andagi サーターアンダーギー (Okinawan Donuts); The Coffee Stand (Makishi Public Market), Brazilian bean Latte; Chinuman Restaurant ちぬまん Kokusai Dori, Salmon Salad, Ishigaki Wagyu Nigiri, Rafute stew pork ラフテー, Snake wine; Yuunangii Restaurant ゆうなんぎい Kokusai Dori, Bitter melon salad (in ponzu sauce), Fu itame Chanpuru, Squid Ink Risotto, Miso Rafute pork stew; Hotel Nikko Alivila Yomitan Resort Okinawa, Wedding French cuisine; Danbo Ramen 暖暮 ラーメン (Hakata Ramen), Hanjyuku Nitamago Ramen, Maru Mochi Yaki Gyoza; Misaka 24-hr eatery 三笠; stir-fry Soumen; Okinawa Chanpon; Beef stir fry.
- Hotel: Hotel in downtown Naha Okinawa
Day 4: Island hop between Okinawa and Kyushu
After saying goodbye to my college buddy, I went on with my journey to mainland Japan and met up with my family member in Hakata/Fukuoka 博多 福岡. Domestic flight experience in Japan was equally efficient as their international flight services. I still recommend travelers to arrived at the airport early in case of any surprises such as long wait in lines.
Getting from Fukuoka airport to downtown Hakata was fast and easy that it only took about 15 minutes and one subway ride. Since the weather was not very stable, we had no choice but exploring indoor venues. This is when I went to Japan Rail office to activate my Japan Rail Pass for tomorrow. We also made seat reservations for the limited express train for the following day.
Since Hakata is the origin of world's favorite Tonkotsu Ramen 豚骨ラーメン, We checked out the Ramen street food court inside of the train station. Some of the best and most famous Ramen restaurants in Kyushu were within easy access.
We finished off the night by visiting a delicious Wagyu Yakiniku 和牛 焼肉 BBQ restaurant in downtown Hakata. Generic brand of Kuroge 黒毛 Wagyu is equally superior as other famous brands of Wagyu such as Kobe 神戸牛 and Matsusaka beef 松阪牛. I plan to dedicate another blog article for details of my Wagyu in Japan experiences in 2017
- Route: Naha Okinawa airport to Hakata/Fukuoka airport
- Transportation: All Nippon Airways between Naha Okinawa to Hakata/Fukuoka Airport; Hakata/Fukuoka underground subway.
- Visit: Hakata station surrounding area and Tenjin 天神 area.
- Food: Okinawa Sanpincha Jasmine Tea; Okinawa Blue Seal Vanilla soft cream; Hakata Issou Ramen Hoten; Hakata Eki Fujikan Beer & Cafe Coffee Latte; Taigen Honten Yakiniku 泰源 本店 焼肉 BBQ restaurant, Kimuchi Moriawase plate, Kurimi (leaner cut), Tokusen Shimofuri 霜降り Karubi boneless rib, Chateaubriand steak, Annin Almond Tofu 杏仁 dessert.
- Hotel: Hotel near Hakata/Fukuoka station
Day 5: Japan Rail Pass Day 1 of 7 - Traveling between Hakata Kyushu to Izumo Taisha and arrive in Sakaiminato GeGeGe no Kitaro ゲゲゲ の 鬼太郎 anime character town
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| Rabbit statues symbolize good fortune and good En at Izumo Taisha |
Today marks the first day of my 7-day Japan Rail Pass use. I traveled from Hakata to Shin-Yamaguchi by bullet train and continued on to Izumo Taisha Shrine 出雲 大社.
After praying for good fortune and En 縁 at Izumo Taisha Shrine, We decided to skip visiting Shimane 島根 Winery in Izumo and head towards our final destination of the day to enjoy the Onsen hotel in Sakaiminoto. The view from Izumo Taisha overlooking the grand Torii was memorizing.
Decor of Onsen hotel Onyado Nono Sakaiminato 天然温泉 境港 夕凪の湯 御宿 野乃 was one of the most amazing ones I have stayed at in Japan. This modern Japanese style Ryokan hotel was of very high value due to its reasonable cost. I plan to dedicate a full blog article on reviewing of this great Ryokan hotel in depth.
We finished the night by exploring Sakaiminato Monster/Ghost town and enjoyed great Sashimi dinner at an Izakaya restaurant for the local folks.
- Route: Hakata/Fukuoka - Shin-Yamaguchi - Izumoshi - Sakaiminato
- Transportation: Shinkansen bullet train; Oki Express train; Ichibata 一畑 バス bus and train; Kitaro anime themed train
- Visit: Izumo Taisha Shrine; Sakaiminato station; Kitaro Yokai town
- Food: Ajiyoshi Eki station restaurant, Curry rice, Niku Udon; Enmusubiya Shimane Gyu Musubi; Tanakaya Izumo Soba; Sakaiminato Izumi Izakaya 和泉 居酒屋, Deep fried cheese, Dashi Maki Tamago, Kue Sashimi, Maguro Sashimi X 2; Hotel complimentary Ramen and Kimchi; Supermarket cut melon
- Hotel: Onyado Nono Sakaiminato Natural Hot Spring Hotel
Day 6: Japan Rail Pass Day 2 of 7 - Sakaiminato gegege Kitaro town stroll; transiting in Yonago 米子 and then settling in Osaka
Kitaro 鬼太郎 anime character themed town was the pilgrimage for the anime fans. Statues of Yokai 妖怪 monsters were lining up both sides of the main strip of the town.
Walking towards the end of the main Kitaro strip, we visited Mizuki Shigeru museum 水木しげるロード, a venue dedicated to the author of the gegege Kitaro cartoon/manga/anime. His creation of Kitaro was made into animation that has been popular in Japan for many decades.
After staying goodbye to the Yokai monster town, we took the popular anime character themed train to Yonago then continued on limited express train and Shinkansen bullet train to Osaka to finish our day.
We ended our day by exploring Shinsekai area 新世界 in Osaka. This area is known to be the Kushikatsu 串カツ deep fried goods restaurant district in Osaka. Kushikatsu cuisine and Tsutenkaku tower 通天閣 are symbols of Osaka tourism.
- Route: Sakaiminato - Yonago - Okayama - Osaka - Shin-Sekai
- Transportation: Yokai train; Yakumo limited express train; Sakura Shinkansen bullet train
- Visit: Kitaro Blvd; MIzuki Shigeru Museum; Yonago station; Osaka JanJan Yokocho; Osaka Shin-Sekai.
- Food: Hotel Breakfast AYCE Ikura, Amaebi, Negitoro and crab meat etc; Yonago Yamachan eatery, Chicken Nanban meal set, Negitoro Maki; Osaka Shin-Sekai Ebisu restaurant, Tonpei yaki, Kushikatsu - cheese, Beni-Shoga, garlic, onion, and Mochi; Nakau restaurant/eatery, Kuroge Wagyu beef bowl, Niku Udon.
- Hotel: Hotel near Shin-Osaka station
Day 7: Japan Rail Pass Day 3 of 7 - Last Samurai movie film location; Kyoto Inari Fushimi Shrine; Osaka Yakiniku Tsuruhashi BBQ district; Osaka Tenmabashisugi longest shopping arcade street
Being a fan of the blockbuster movie "The Last Samurai", I paid a visit to the filming location in Himeji 姫路, about 30 minutes from Osaka by Shinkansen bullet train. After purchasing the Himeji based Shinki 神姫 bus, Shosha mountain 書写山 cable car, and hiked for a little bit, we arrived at the memorizing Last Samurai movie film location deep in the mountains.
We took the bullet train and local train to the entrance of the time travel tunnel in Inari Fushimi Shrine 伏見 稲荷 大社, where another Hollywood movie, Memoir of Geisha, was filmed.
For dinner, we stopped by Osaka Tsuruhashi 鶴橋 Yakiniku BBQ district for great value A5 grade Wagyu beef.
We ended the night by visiting the longest shopping arcade street in Japan, Tenmanbashisuji 天満橋筋. Most of the shops were closed around 10pm, but there were many Pachinko parlors パチンコ and "Drug/cosmetic stores" 薬粧店 still in operation on the street.
- Route: Osaka - Himeji - Kyoto - Inari Fushimi - Osaka Tsuruhashi - Tenmabashisugi - Osaka.
- Transportation: Shinkansen bullet train; Shinki bus; Shosha mountain rope-way cable car. Local commuter train in Kyoto and Osaka.
- Visit: Last Samurai film locations; Himeji station; Kyoto Inari Fushimi Shrine; Osaka Tsuruhashi; Osaka Tenmanbashisuji shopping arcade.
- Food: Coffee House Royal, Morning sandwich set; Himeji station Fuji Tei restaurant, Curry rice, Wagyu hamburger steak; Osaka Tsuruhashi Yakiniku restaurant, Premium A5 grade meat set with assorted rare parts, Kimchi Moriawase set, Jo Bara meat plate, Cabbage Kimchi.
- Hotel: Hotel near Shin-Osaka station
Day 8: Japan Rail Pass Day 4 of 7 - Transiting to peaceful Tuna fishing village Kii Katsuura and being taken to the Dragon Palace by the Turtle (overnight stay at Hotel Urashima) ホテル 浦島
After 4 hours of limited express train ride from Osaka to Kii Katsuura in Wakayama, we arrived at the Kii Katsuura 那智 勝浦 fishing village, a town known for its fresh tuna and Onsen hot spring hotels
Since Kii Katsuura is a Tuna fishing town, I was having Blue fin tuna cuisine for lunch and dinner in town and at the hotel Izakaya restaurant
There were no hyped up price for souvenirs and fruits in Kii Katsuura. Small towns like Kii Katsuura is very suitable for JR pass travelers who likes to venture outside of major attractions in Japan and enjoy non-touristy experiences.
Once upon a time in Japan there was a "fisherman who rescues a turtle, which in gratitude carries him to the Dragon Palace (Ryūgū-jō) that lies beneath or beyond the sea. There he is entertained by the princess Otohime as a reward. He spends what he believes to be a few short days, but upon his return to his home village, he finds himself 300 years in the future. When he opens the box (tamatebako) he was told never to open, he turns into an old man." Wikipedia.
- Route: Osaka - Kii Katsuura - Hotel Urashima (Dragon Palace)
- Transportation: Limited express train; Turtle boat (Hotel Urashima transportation service)
- Visit: Kii Katsuura Fishing Village/Harbor town; Hotel Urashima; Boukidou Onsen natural cave hot spring spa; Genbudou Onsen natural cave hot spring spa.
- Food: Cafe Trip Sandwich breakfast set; Kii Katsuura Takehara restaurant Tuna lunch meal set; Hotel Urashima Umi Tsubasa Izakaya restaurant Deep fried shrimp, Tuna Sashimi, Special fish Sashimi, Deep fried cheese; Minari Ramen restaurant Wakayama Ramen, Chicken skin Gyoza
- Hotel: "Hotel Dragon Palace" (Hotel Urashima)
Day 9: Japan Rail Pass Day 5 of 7 - Road trip in Toba 鳥羽 area in Mie 三重. Tokyo Shibuya scramble crossing スクランブル交差点 crazy Halloween celebration
Breakfast buffet at any major Onsen hotel is usually to amazing in terms of selection, quality of ingredients, taste, and amount of guests.
After enjoying our hotel breast buffet, we took the limited to train to go to meet up with one of Japanese buddies who lives in Mie. My buddy took me for a drive on the scenic Mikimoto Pearl Road ミキモト パール ロード Seaside Line drive. We arrived at the Toba Observatory 鳥羽展望台 for the great view of pacific ocean.
On the way back to Ise station 伊勢, we stopped by an Oyster house 焼き 牡蠣 小屋 on the "Grilled Oyster Road". Grilled and deep fried oysters were fresh, inexpensive and delicious.
After saying goodbye to my buddy in Mie, I continued onto my journey to Nagoya to meet up with my family member, to our final destination, Tokyo. Shibuya Scramble crossing has become one of the craziest party zone in the world for Halloween celebration. I saw some of the most creative and hilarious costumes while I was walking across the packed Shibuya scramble crossing.
- Route: Kii-Katsuura - Ise - Toba - Nagoya - Tokyo
- Transportation: Limited expression train; friend's car; Hikari Shinkansen bullet train; Tokyo local train.
- Visit: Toba area; Mikimoto Pearl Road Seaside Line drive; Toba Observatory; "Grilled Oyster House road"; Tokyo Shibuya Halloween Celebration
- Food: Hotel Urashima breakfast buffet; Toba Mutsumi restaurant Delux Chirashi; Kakitaro restaurant Steamed and deep fried oysters; Tokyo Wara Wara Izakaya restaurant Omuyakisoba, Seafood Risotto, Kitsune chicken meat ball.
- Hotel: Hotel Keikyu EX Inn Shinagawa-Ekimae (SHINAGAWA GOOS)
Day 10: Japan Rail Pass Day 6 of 7 - Tokyo Tsukiji fish market stroll; Day trip to Izu DHC Akazawa Day Onsen House; Superb Michelin 3-star experience at Tokyo Robuchon restaurant in Ebisu
We met up with my other college buddy in Tokyo at a restaurant/eatery in Tsukiji fish market 築地市場 district and enjoyed some delicious assorted abalone 鮑 Sashimi for breakfast.
Tsukiji fish market has become one of the most touristy area in Tokyo Japan since the VISA policy has been more relaxed.
Since the weather forecast stated the weather will not be very stable, we decided to take a day trip to Izu 伊豆 to enjoy relaxing Onsen hot spring spa.
After returning back to Tokyo, we dressed up and got ready for the once-a-life-time Michelin 3-star restaurant experience at Joël Robuchon Restaurant ガストロノミー ジョエル・ロブション in Ebisu.
- Route: Tsukiji area - Izu area - Tokyo Ebisu 恵比寿
- Transportation: Tokyo local train and subway; Kodama Shinkansen bullet train; Izu area private train.
- Visit: Tsukiji Fish Market; Akazawa Onsen 赤沢 温泉 Hot Spring Spa facility; Tokyo Ebisu Joël Robuchon Restaurant.
- Food: Tsukiji Katou restaurant Sashimi meal set; Yonemoto Coffe Head Shop Coffee Latte; Izu Akazawa Onsen restaurant Dandanmen noodle, Oyakodon, Daikon Oden; Ebisu Joël Robuchon Restaurant dinner set.
- Hotel: Hotel Keikyu EX Inn Shinagawa-Ekimae (SHINAGAWA GOOS)
Day 11: Japan Rail Pass Day 7 of 7 - Day trip to Atami area; Gina Six venue; Tokyo station area
With the intention of visiting Atami 熱海 area for its Onsen hot spring, the raining weather somewhat ruined our day trip. We ended up exploring areas near Atami station for food and shopping due pouring rain. Beyond my expectation, we had some of the best and inexpensive Sushi in Atami.
We decided not to go after any open-air Onsen hot spring in Atami in pouring rain, we returned back to Tokyo to finish up the rest of the day. We bought some Japanese grown fruits from the supermarket near Shinagawa train station and devoured them inside of our hotel room.
I later went to latest venue in Ginza 銀座, Ginza Six, to have a taste of their famous nitro brew coffee at the Ginza Starbucks Reserve Bar. The cold brew cup of coffee was very smooth in taste.
Ginza Six is the newest shopping venue in Ginza Tokyo that has very stylish design and offers plenty of name brand goods for high end product shoppers.
- Route: Tokyo - Atami - Tokyo Ginza - Tokyo station area
- Transportation: Kodama Shinkansen bullet train; local Tokyo commuter train and subway.
- Visit: Atami station area; Tokyo Ginza area; Tokyo station area.
- Food: Atami Sushi restaurant Sushi set; Tokyo supermarket Japanese musk melon, muskat grape, Fruits tomato; Tokyo Ginza Six Starbucks Reserve Bar Nitro Cold Brew Coffee; Yomenya Goemon 洋麺屋 五右衛門 Japanese style spaghetti restaurant Mentaiko pasta, Flan.
- Hotel: Hotel Keikyu EX Inn Shinagawa-Ekimae (SHINAGAWA GOOS)
Day 12: No more Japan Rail Pass - Revisiting Ebisu Le Chateau de Joel Robuchon; Asakusa area; Ueno Ameyokocho; Roppongi area; Tokyo station area; Haneda airport
This was the last day of my stay in Japan. Since my Japan Rail pass expired yesterday, I had to travel within Toky so I do not over spend on transportation. We decided to start off the day by visiting the beautiful Le Chateau de Joel Robuchon in Ebisu since it was raining on the day of our dinner reservation. The French style Chateau in the middle of Tokyo concrete jungle was one of the most unique view I have seen in Japan.
Lunch was at a franchise Shabu Shabu restaurant in Asakusa 浅草 area, one of the most popular destinations for international visitors.
Last day souvenir shopping was done at Ueno Ameyokocho アメヤ 横丁 shopping arcade street. This place has transformed into an even more bustling area due to the high volume of tourists.
I spent my late afternoon at the Tokyo City View Observatory in Roppongi 六本木 to enjoy the glimpse of the beautiful Tokyo Tower prior to dinner and my night time flight.
- Route: Shinagawa - Ebisu, Asakusa, Ueno, Roppongi, Tokyo station area, Haneda airport.
- Transportation: Tokyo area commuter train and subway. Hankyu train system for Haneda airport.
- Visit: Ebisu Chateau revisit; Asakusa area; Roppongi Mori Tower Tokyo City View; Tokyo station area
- Food: Nabe Hot Pot lunch; Gyudon No Chikara in Ueno Japanese raised Beef bowl; Edomae Sushi restaurant Omakase Sushi set, Kohata, Chutoro; Haneda airport Yoshinoya restaurant Wagyu beef bowl
- Hotel: All Nippon Airways Flight Economy seat
- To read about my 2016 Japan Rail Pass detailed itinerary, visit: Project Shinkansen 2016 - All Over Japan from Hokkaido to Kyushu Japan Rail JR Pass Itinerary
- To read about my 2015 Japan Rail Pass detailed itinerary, visit: Project Shinkansen 2015 - Japan Rail Pass Itinerary Seto Inland Sea
- To read about my 2010 Japan Rail Pass detailed itinerary, visit: Japan Rail Pass Journey - Introduction to my JR pass Experience and Itinerary
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